My turn.

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Re: My turn.

Post by Anderson » Wed Sep 06, 2017 9:33 am

hi Sir Petty Officer, Gorlami_Raverderche!

Also from my side, a MOST RESPECTULLY THANK, due to fact that I posts the same topic some days before and nearly all my questions have been answered be this very valuable recommendation-post.

however since you are an expert in at least this domain, please add us your preferred manufacturers in regards of

mainboard (e.g. z270), ram (e.g. DIMM Kit 16 (8+8) GB, DDR4-2400) and storage (e.g.SSD 500GB, M.2), probably PSU: how much power you consider (>550), and case. As I read in some forums at GPU the manufacture plays minor role in performance at standard settings however in quality and service issues.

If you be again so kind, please enlight us again!

Thank you so much!
Last edited by Anderson on Thu Sep 07, 2017 6:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: My turn.

Post by Gorlami_Raverderche » Wed Sep 06, 2017 10:12 pm

I haven't tried enough different brands to fully rate them all. Personally, I'd be comfortable with MSI, ASUS, EVGA and ASRock for both Motherboards and GPU. MSI has established itself pretty well in the overclocking domain, e.g. you probably heard of their GPU overclocking software "MSI Afterburner", which can be used with non-MSI cards too. ASRock earned itself some credit when they first released their Z170 mobos with the ability to break Intel's non-K overclocking prison.

So there is no standard answer here. I would look into the specific design details within their offerings, and combine with pricing to make a choice. And I also like to think matching the GPU and mobo manufacturer is a good idea.

In terms of details I look for, I go over the following:
1. What Chipset it's based on, check for one with good overclocking support. For 1151, choose "Z" types over "B" types. Like Z170 over B150, but there is a newer gen now I think. Go for the latest gen, but not when it's fresh, or just plainly overpriced. Like the new Intel X299 (Socket 2066) platform is just a pure rip off.
2. PCIe x16 (two is enough), PCIe x4 or x1 (this matters if you wanna put a sound card), their location on the board, do they have good spacing between them.
3. Memory slots, I'm ok with 4. What are the speeds they support.
4. How many fan connectors, I'm happy with 2x CPU fan, 3x Sys fan.
5. How many SATA sockets (I need 6), how many M.2 sockets (I prefer 2)
6. LED lighting I don't care, but be careful with fancy LED marketing tricks.

To add some to what I stated in previous post about choosing your PSU, go with the wattage that's some 30% higher than the minimum required combined wattage of all the components. This leaves room for the expected PSU wear, overclocking requires extra power as you might expect. Don't worry about electricity bill, cuz your PSU will draw power dynamically on demand anyway. 600W - 900W depends on your build, 750W is a nice middle ground that fits most non-SLI environments.

For storage, you can go for the basic 1xSSD + 1xHDD layout. SATA SSD or M.2 purely depends on the thickness of your wallet. But I favor a more specific arrangement for the number of each:

1xSSD for Windows and non-game applications, 1xSSD for games. In case you need to re-install Windows, your games can be intact, Steam can recognize those game folders after you re-install your system (just select the previous SteamLibrary folder again). Also, if you are unlucky enough to have one of the SSDs go haywire, you don't lose everything. If they both die on you at the same time...allahu akbar...

1xHDD for general file storage (and games if I run out of SSD space), 1xHDD for video recording. If you use Shadowplay or other game recording software that writes on the drive constantly, it's good to keep the torture within confined space.

For choosing a case, I can't say much. Just check buyer reviews to avoid design flaws, and choose a size that suits you. A see-through side panel is always welcome, not only it looks sexy, and it also makes it much easier to keep an eye on the working condition of fans, and dust level.

For cooling,water-cooling is always better than air-cooling for your CPU, you can get decent ones for under 100 EUR, and they are just as easy to install as the other. My CPU is an i5 6400 OC from 2.7Ghz to 4.3Ghz, and the temperature never goes higher than 55c. Water-cooling systems are also easier to clean, since you can take out the radiator and fan without messing with the heat sink. You will need to consider the air flow directions when installing system fans in the case. You can see the direction markings on the fans frame usually. There is no best way to air flow direction placements, but keep in mind, don't create "traps" or "chokes". Like, if your GPU has blower style fans, then you don't wanna have a system fan at the case bottom that blows air out. If your front panel has inflow fans, then the rear panel shouldn't have another inflow fan. You don't need equal amount of inflow fans vs outflow fans, the total internal air pressure will sort themselves out.

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Re: My turn.

Post by Gorlami_Raverderche » Thu Sep 07, 2017 12:51 pm

I'm noticing some GTX1080 priced at 600-650 EUR range now, so please re-evaluate my previous comments comparing 1070, 1080 and 1080Ti

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Re: My turn.

Post by Anderson » Thu Sep 07, 2017 6:59 pm

hi Sir Petty Officer, Gorlami_Raverderche!

Now i am flashed due to your profesionallity and enthusiam. I have to read through properly and think ober than answer.

But for today:Wow and big thanks
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Re: My turn.

Post by Gorlami_Raverderche » Sun Sep 10, 2017 9:58 am

Just finished with some minor upgrades with my build, sharing the results.

CPU: Intel i5 6400 @ 2.7GHz >>> (BCLK) Overclocked @ 4.3GHz
Motherboard: MSI B150M Bazooka >>> MSI Z170A MPower Gaming Titanium
Graphics: MSI GTX 980 Gaming 4G LE >>> Overclocked @ 1310-1411 MHz Core Clock, 7952 MHz Memory Clock
Memory: HyperX DDR4 16Gb 2133 Mhz >>> Overclocked @ 2666 Mhz
Storage: 2x150GB SSD (SATA), 2X1TB HDD
PSU: CoolerMaster 500W >>> Corsair 750 W
CPU Cooling: CoolerMaster Seidon 120V Watercooling
Case Cooling: 2x Front Panel + 1x Rear Panel Fans >>> 3x Front Panel + 1x Rear Panel + 1x Bottom Case Fans
Display: Samsung S24D340 @ 24" 1920x1080 >>> LG-29UM68 @ 29" 2560x1080
Dedicated Sound Card: Creative Sound Blaster Z (PCI-e)
Sound Systems: Logitech z506 5.1 Surround, Logitech G633 7.1 Headset
Peripherals: Logitech G502 Mouse, Some Chinese knockoff mechanical keyboard

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Re: My turn.

Post by TokaiTele » Mon Sep 11, 2017 3:12 pm

I've just built a new rig - not the best time because of the cyber currency bollocks - it cost £800. I didn't buy a hd because I already had one.

Ryzen 5 1600
GTX 1060 6GB
8GB ram - will upgrade soon
MSI B350m Gaming Pro mobo
630w psu
Fractal Design case

This is gonna last me a few years. My point being that this is about the sweet spot for a mid-high level gaming rig.
Let me know if you need help with any of the build mate :-)

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Re: My turn.

Post by Spawnsy » Fri Sep 15, 2017 12:44 am

so, asked a mate. got this reply. please comment.

That's ace mate. I'll post it to the forum when I get home on Friday and let the lads argue about it and offer suggestions of tweaks. But predictably, you've pretty much just nailed it. :)

I built the following (see image) on, taking in to account all that you've
said and a bit of online research. To explain my choices
here goes...
Antec case: No fills, it has a silly window
(no choice) but no LEDs. I've
always had Antec cases
and find them a pleasure to work with. This one fits well
with the CPU coolers radiator (if you go for the one below).
I must admit, a window in a case makes little sense to me.
You rarely look inside and if you do the side panel is
usually off for that reason. If the reason is to see a
problem should one happen then you're too late by the
time you've seen it! I mean, what might you see anyway?
Seriously? A fire!? = Too late. Maybe a fan that's
stopped working? = Too late AND the PC should protect itself
in that event. What about sparks maybe = holy shit! = WTF! =
Way too late, AND you probably got water in it so it's
dead anyway! If the reason is to show off the hardware then
I'd have to ask who's actually paying attention,
including you once the novelty has worn off, especially if
it's on the floor.
CPU cooler: Liquid cooler because
you said to future proof for overclocking purposes.
Personally I would air cool now with the stock cooler the
CPU comes with it (assuming it's a retail boxed
version) and upgrade to water cooled later. This would
obviously save £100 now.
PSU: Decent,
750 Watt power supply, full modular design to cut down on
unnecessary cables and SLi capable in
case you want to double up on GPUs later
(when prices drop significantly that is).
SSD: M.2 PCIe 250GB SSD for
obvious performance reasons. I know I don't have to sell
the benefits of solid state hard drives to you so I
won't bother. You'll notice I haven't included a
second HDD? If a
second, third, forth, etc HDD is just
for storage then re-use the ones you have. Failing that I
have a couple of 500GB's lying around.
CPU: It's lower end to keep the
cost down but it is the 'K' series you mentioned as
they're unlocked for overclocking.
Gigabyte motherboard: This looks
like a good one and has everything you need (I believe). I
personally like Gigabyte and Asus over all
other manufacturers for both mobos and
GPUs, and as you say am also inclined to
match manufacturers on those two particular items whenever
1080Ti 11GB: This is the majority of the cost, but as you
specifically said 1080Ti I've chosen the one I think
makes the most sense. For a start it's a Gigabyte (see
above). It's also dual width, not triple width so should
fit most mobos/cases
comfortably. The PSU and
motherboard has enough connectors for two of these GPUs (SLi later
maybe?). It's triple fan cooled, not water cooled, but
personally I wouldn't mess with overclocking a £700+
GPU, not when it's possible to dual them
up later anyway.
Memory is missing from my list. The
RAM you've been generously offered is good (and free).
The dual vs quad channel bit is irrelevant from a memory
point-of-view and is just marketing. The difference is not
with the memory it's with the motherboard (and CPU). If
it's a quad channel capable motherboard then that RAM
will work as such due to them 100% matching. In a dual
channel motherboard they will work in dual channel mode
(2x2). Incidentally the motherboard I list above is dual
channel. If you have to buy RAM then add at least another
£150 for 16GB to compare to what Age has offered
Optical drive is
not listed. Add £12 if you don't want to reuse what you
isn't listed either. I'd recommend Windows 10
because I've never had a problem at home or at work with
Windows 10 Home or Pro. Having said that, I'm not a PC
gamer anymore so you may want a few second opinions on that.
Windows 10 Home 64bit OEM is around
£88 incl. VAT from Scan.
Apart from the temporary removal of
the CPU liquid cooler there's not much room to cut cost
here. One option though might be to leave off the 1080Ti for
now and use the GTX950 you have. Obviously for gaming the
1080Ti is unrivalled but I'd be really interested to see
how much better your PC runs even with the GTX950, but the
rest of the hardware seriously upgraded alongside it.
It's a no cost option if you're looking to buy a
1080Ti anyway, but it might convince you to delay the 1080Ti
until the prices are lower if the performance is half decent
with the older card.


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Re: My turn.

Post by Berkman » Fri Sep 15, 2017 10:16 am

BEFORE YOU READ - Image didn't load for me while I wrote this, system in the picture is practically perfect for 4K / 1080p 120hz gamin. Text following is good advice for someone who wishes to save a few bucks yet have a reliable computer.

Okay, I get where he is going at with his suggestions. For the most part, I agree with him. Knowing you Spawns, who rather have a hassle-free setup and will probably leave the computer be while it works, I have a couple of suggestions.
  • Overclocking - I'd say, in today's world, where a new generation of parts brings approximately %25 performance increase, best you can gain from a massive overclock is %5. Some might say that any free gain is a good gain however, in my experience, It doesn't come without a cost. Stability of an overclock nowadays depends more on games you play. Developers are optimizing by specific parts; and I came across multiple instances of instability on AAA titles although my OC was stable on everything else.

    Of course, with OC, comes added heat on parts, which in turn means more noise, which will take us the second item.
  • CPU Fan - The one comes with your CPU will be adequate, AND LOUD. And In my experience, it is best to have a quieter PC. That requires good airflow. Stock fans have tighter fins, will gather dust faster, and over time, will be inefficient. Your temps will unavoidably rise, and your CPU will throttle. For those reasons, even a cheaper aftermarket air cooler will be better than a stock one. You will not regret that purchase, will save you a lot of hassle and provide comfort.
  • Case - Few things, lots of space, cable routing options, interior cable grommet, fan screw grommets. Generally if it has a dual 140mm radiator mounting space, it is a good case. I'd recommend a C70 from Corsair.

    Fan of removable hard drive bays, dust filters and full metal cases. Thermally better, not much to break. This is a one time purchase, adds to comfort a lot. Worth spending tiny bit more for this part. I've used 5 motherboards and 4 different GPUs + PSUs with this case. Takes anything I throw at it. I doubt I'll ever need to replace it.

    Antecs are also good, there are tons of variations. But C70 is extremely versatile. Probably not the cheapest, as I've said; one time purchase.
  • PSU - This one is very important. Lifeline of your computer. Always go with a good brand to get what you pay for. Doesn't matter whether it's the cheapest the brand has to offer or the top of the line one. Some names, Corsair, Seasonic. Get a 800 Watt PSU that has at least two 6+2pin 12V PCI-E and two 4pin or one 8pin ATX Power (CPU Power) connectors.

    A good brand will have reliable capacitors, less electrical noise, will have protection from voltage / current spikes, that would otherwise ruin your parts. Will supply advertised power. There are plenty of products that say they can supply 800 Watts when in fact they will top at around 600 Watts. When you actually compare the prices, said product will have the same price as a 500 Watt name brand PSU. 3 guesses why.

    I don't agree with the Modular PSU suggestion, as long as you have a decent case to tuck cables away, such as C70; adds too much to the price, reduces flexibility, as the cables are usually shorter, and not as many.

    Also I find SLI to be pointless for the most part, as a means to give a new life to an outdated GPU; unless you happened to find one for free. Any 800 Watt PSU from those brands will support at least one extra GPU anyway. Games are rarely optimized for it and drivers have always been unstable for SLI.
  • HDD - Use the ones you have. If you only have 1, getting a second one will greatly improve your performance, as moving the page file away from the Operating System (c) drive will give it a nice boost; most noticeable when you start and stop a software.

    As a second drive, if you can afford an SSD, even the smallest, 128 GB one, install your operating system on that SSD straight away. EVERY SINGLE daily driver software such as your Web Browser, Mail, what have you, will be a pleasure to use. Also, your computer will boot and shut down in mere seconds and will be at least 10 times more responsive during use. Yes SSDs are expensive, but difference is night and day.
  • CPU - One of the most costly components. My rule of thumb is, getting the newest generation of CPUs, even if it's a low-end one. This component is tied to your Motherboard and RAM. Most cases, you'll swap those three together. Ideally, you'll use that CPU and swap your GPU at least once while keeping that trio.

    AMD is often a better choice if you mostly play AAA titles such as Battlefield / COD and alike as Intel CPUs which will give similar performance on such games will be more expensive. If you are into more indie games such as PUBG, Squad, you are better off getting a CPU that has the best Single Thread Performance for the price point. Intel CPUs often do this better.
  • Motherboard - This is down to your preference, and in my experience, it's mostly for comfort. Get a Motherboard that can support at least 16GB of RAM, frequency isn't all that important. I don't know what Age has offered you, but I'd imagine it is something very nice. Get one that supports that plus the CPU you are planning to buy.
  • GPU - Always get the second or third best GPU available. Currently GTX1070 or GTX1060. Difference between a 1070 and 1080TI will not add anything to your experience as it can only be truly felt at 4K/ 1080p 120fps monitors.

    Will last you a good 4 years, and you will be able to run everything at around 60FPS until the end of it's lifespan. Been doing that for 12 years and not once I felt like I was lagging behind. 8800GTS / GTX580 / GTX970 which is still going strong, 1080p BF1 at 75 or so FPS at Ultra.

    AVOID getting a card from older generation or a card that is low end. You'll regret it and most definitely are going to feel like buying a better one of the same generation at some point. It will last for maybe a year or two, and you'll never be able to run anything beyond Medium. Instead, save it until the next generation comes and spend big on this.
  • I'd keep your 950 and PSU, as power requirements are getting lower as years go.
  • I'd definitely get that Corsair C70.
  • i5 7500 as you enjoy PUBG and CPU intensive games. Wouldn't bother with anything K. It's a gimmick. I'd get a motherboard that will satisfy your USB / Audio / IO needs.
  • Get a CPU cooler to install on that CPU. Cooler Master Hyper TX3i Would do it.
  • If I have enough money left, I'd get a nice SSD to install my operating system on to.
  • Still up for spending? Get a better GPU, I'd wait for the next generation though.
Hope this helps.
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Re: My turn.

Post by Satan » Fri Sep 15, 2017 4:53 pm

Wise words especially with the case who really does look at them, who really is that interested fair point. I have never ever over clocked, never had or seen the need if you have decent equipment stock speeds should be enough and then a decent fan / cooler would be fine for the most demanding games. The Crucial MX300 are a very good performance for bucks SSD and you can get a windows 10 key significantly cheaper than that but you will probably have windows 10 even if upgraded from 7 or 8 so just note your windows 10 key (Magical Jellybean Keyfinder) and do clean install.
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Re: My turn.

Post by WarGanisM » Fri Sep 15, 2017 6:00 pm

I definitely agree or share Berkmans opinion, (for what its worth) The GTX 1080TI is a monster but for price and power, it seems total overkill imo. Honestly I think a good single 1060GTX would suffice and last a fair duration, and then maybe as time goes by, buy a second 1060GTX (which will have dropped in price by then) and SLI them, which typically outperforms a single 1080GTX last time i looked. If you want good price to power ratio card then a 1070GTX would be the option.
Last edited by WarGanisM on Fri Sep 15, 2017 7:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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